Chinchilla Care Guide
Basic info:
Chinchillas are native to the rugged, arid slopes of the Andes Mountains in South America, a place where the air is thin, the weather is harsh, and resources are scarce. To survive in such an unforgiving environment, chinchillas evolved into resilient, highly adaptable animals with some truly fascinating features.
In captivity, Chinchillas live an average of 15+ years, with many reaching 20 years or more with proper care. When you welcome a chinchilla into your home, you're making a long-term commitment—so be sure you're ready for the journey ahead!
These small rodents are known for their delightful, curious personalities and charming quirks. They don’t require a lot of space, and when their basic needs are met, they’re relatively low maintenance.When socialized from a young age, chinchillas are typically friendly and affectionate. With gentle, consistent handling, most chinchillas can become affectionate (in varying levels) and social. They use their mouths to gently explore the world around them, which includes light nibbles on your fingers (a way for them to say hello to you or ask you to give them more attention), hair, jewelry, or even your eyebrows. These nibbles are rarely aggressive. True bites only occur if a chinchilla is scared, sick or extremely stressed. Chinchillas often groom themselves as a calming behavior and to keep their fur free from oils and dirt, and if they start grooming you, it’s a sign of acceptance and feeling at ease.
Chinchillas are incredibly expressive animals, and their body language says a lot about their mood. One of the most joyful behaviors is popcorning—sudden, erratic jumps in the air that look just like popcorn kernels bursting. This usually happens during playtime or after a bath, and it’s a clear sign your chinchilla is feeling safe, happy, and full of energy. Seeing your chinchilla popcorn is one of the most rewarding moments as an owner!
Tail wagging is another unique form of chinchilla communication. They may wag during play with another chinchilla, as a mating signal, or slowly wag in a circle when feeling annoyed or uncomfortable while being held. Pay attention to the context, it’s their way of expressing what words cannot.
Chinchillas produce cecotropes, which are soft, nutrient-rich feces (different from regular feces) produced in the cecum, a part of the digestive system. Chinchillas eat their cecotropes to utilize and digest nutrients such as vitamins and amino acids that weren’t fully absorbed during the initial digestion process.
One of the most remarkable things about chinchillas is their fur—the densest of any land mammal, with each follicle producing 40–60 individual hairs on average. This luxurious coat once protected them from freezing mountain temperatures, but in captivity, it means they are extremely sensitive to heat. Because they cannot sweat, pant, or regulate their body temperature like other animals, chinchillas must be kept in a cool, dry environment with temperatures between 55°F and 72°F, and humidity levels below 50%. An air conditioner is the only reliable way to keep them cool. Never aim a fan directly at your chinchilla—it won’t help and could cause more harm than good.
To shed old fur and stay comfortable, chinchillas molt 3–4 times per year. They have a built-in survival mechanism called a “fur slip,” where a patch of fur will release when grabbed—helping them escape predators without injury. Don’t worry, it grows back! Another natural defense a chinchilla may use when frightened or stressed is standing on their hind legs to spray urine as a warning. They can also emit a distinct odor (often compared to vitamins) from scent glands if threatened, handled improperly or just because they aren’t in the mood to be touched.
Chinchillas are surprisingly vocal! They use a variety of chirps, barks, “kaks,” squeaks, teeth chattering, teeth grinding, coos, grunts and screams to express how they feel. Each sound has its own meaning or even multiple meanings. You’ll learn their “language” over time. Barking may signal alarm, could be a means of letting their herd know there is a strange noise or could be a way to get your attention (you are now in their herd!), while gentle chirping or squeaking usually means contentment or curiosity. Teeth chattering can indicate annoyance or pain,but teeth grinding can be a way to communicate happiness or contentment. Chirping can mean they are feeling good and happy and kaks can mean they are feeling threatened or agitated. Grunts and coos can be a way of saying hello. A scream sound is rarely heard and signifies your chinchilla is in pain, very anxious or feels threatened. You don’t want to ignore a scream sound because your chinchilla could be telling you they are in immediate danger.
Both male and female chinchillas make fantastic companions. They’re full of energy, personality, and a touch of sass—each one truly has its own character.
Despite being desert-dwellers, chinchillas still need access to fresh, clean water 24/7. Their urine can range from pale yellow to dark amber if properly hydrated.
Chinchillas in captivity are more crepuscular (most active at dawn and dusk) and chinchillas in the wild are more nocturnal(most active at night). Many chinchillas will adapt to a slightly altered routine in household environments where they are a mixture of both.
Fun fact: Chinchillas can sleep with their eyes open!
These animals come in a wide range of sizes, from 400 grams to 1600 grams, thanks to their diverse genetic backgrounds. To monitor their health, it’s important to weigh your chinchilla weekly using a digital kitchen scale. A sudden weight change of more than 40 grams in a short time could be an early warning sign of illness. With a proper diet of hay, quality pellets, and limited safe treats, the risk of obesity is minimal.
Despite their athletic build, chinchillas are terrestrial animals—designed for jumping and hopping on rocky ground, not climbing (chinchillas are often mistaken as climbers like squirrels or rats). They don’t have claws for climbing like other rodents and are surprisingly clumsy for such agile creatures. In fact, they can leap up to 6 feet, but we strongly discourage this, as they can injure themselves in the process. This is why long, horizontal cages are preferred over tall, vertical ones.
Diet:
Feeding your chinchilla a proper, species-appropriate diet is essential for their health, longevity, and overall well-being. A balanced diet not only supports digestive and dental health but also helps prevent many of the chronic illnesses that can affect chinchillas.
High-quality chinchilla pellets are the backbone of their diet. These specially formulated pellets contain balanced nutrients to support long-term health and help with dental wear, which is crucial for chinchillas since their teeth never stop growing. Chinchillas require unlimited access to high-fiber pellets. While pellets are vital, adding hay is best practice for a well-rounded diet. Coarse grass hays provide extra dental wear (specifically to the molars) to complement the work of pellets, additional fiber and essential roughage to keep the digestive tract moving smoothly.
Pro Tip: Most chinchillas will consume more hay when it’s offered 3-4 times per week rather than daily.
Healthy chinchilla teeth should be a rich orangish hue. This natural coloration comes from proper mineral levels in their diet. If your chinchilla’s teeth appear white or pale, it may be a sign of calcium deficiency. Safe ways to supplement calcium include Alfalfa hay (cubes or loose), Cuttlebones (commonly sold for birds, great for gnawing and calcium!) and Plain white chalk(offered in tiny amounts only if there is a calcium deficiency).
You can find high-quality, horse-grade hay from local farms, feed stores, or reputable online retailers such as Small Pet Select and Chewy. Timothy hay (1st, 2nd or 3rd cut), Oat hay, Orchard grass and Alfalfa hay (beneficial for any life stage in the Chinchilla even with the higher calcium content) are some great options. For those with hay allergies or seeking added enrichment, compressed hay cubes are a great alternative or supplement. Do not purchase hay with anything else added to it like herbs or treats.
Trusted pellet brands include:
• Oxbow Essentials Chinchilla (Red Bag)
• Mazuri Chinchilla Diet
• Science Selective Chinchilla Food
• Sherwood Chinchilla Pellets
Avoid any mix-style foods or pellets that contain colored bits, seeds, or dried fruits—these are not only nutritionally imbalanced but are also dangerous to your pet. Chinchillas have extremely delicate digestive systems and thrive on a basic, bland diet. Despite what you may see in stores or on social media, they should never be given:
• Fruits or vegetables (These can cause gas, bloat, GI stasis, and other digestive issues.)
• Seeds or nuts (High in fat and difficult for chinchillas to digest, posing a risk of liver and pancreas problems.)
• Processed pet treats (Many commercial “chinchilla-safe” treats contain added sugars, preservatives, and fillers that can harm your pet over time.)
• Salt licks or mineral licks (Excessive salt and mineral intake throws off digestion, and there’s no need to supplement their diet with these.)
Treats: Less is More
While it's tempting to spoil your chinchilla with treats, moderation is key. Treats should be natural, minimally processed, and offered sparingly—no more than one teaspoon total per week. Chinchillas under six months of age should not receive any treats at all.
Safe treat options include but are not limited to:
• Dried rose hips, lemon balm leaf, marshmallow leaf
• Dried hibiscus, chamomile, calendula, peony petals or red rose petals
• Dried apple blossom flowers or honeysuckle flowers
• Bee pollen granules (in tiny amounts)
• Old-fashioned rolled oats, plain shredded wheat, plain Cheerios (unsweetened)
• Dried nettle leaf, peppermint leaf, echinacea leaf, dandelion leaf
These options can be rotated or used as occasional rewards, but they should never replace core dietary staples.
Water:
Chinchillas must have constant access to fresh, clean water. Some safe water options include:
• Filtered tap water (such as from a Brita filter)
• Reverse osmosis water
• Bottled purified water
Avoid using distilled water, as it lacks essential minerals and may contribute to organ damage over time. Equip each cage with two glass water bottles in case one fails or runs dry. We recommend checking water bottles daily during feeding to ensure they’re functioning properly. On average, a healthy chinchilla drinks 1–3 ounces of water per day.
Enclosure:
Chinchillas are energetic, agile creatures that thrive in thoughtfully designed enclosures. While it's easy to assume that bigger is always better, that’s not necessarily the case. A spacious cage is fantastic—but only if it can be properly furnished, regularly cleaned, and safely maintained. The good news? You don’t need an elaborate or extravagant setup to keep your chinchilla healthy and happy. In fact, simple and safe enclosures are often the most successful, especially for first-time owners who might otherwise feel overwhelmed
A well-suited chinchilla cage should offer ample space for movement, multiple platforms and ledges for jumping, cozy hiding spots, food and water dishes, and a variety of enrichment opportunities. These elements mimic their natural behavior and environment while keeping them mentally and physically stimulated.
When it comes to cage materials, metal is the only safe option. Plastic components can be easily chewed, posing a serious risk of impaction and other life-threatening health issues if ingested. Wooden cages, while sometimes visually appealing, are problematic: they absorb urine, harbor bacteria, and are nearly impossible to fully sanitize. They're also no match for a chinchilla’s constant chewing.
Cage Flooring:
A solid metal floor is ideal, with an option to line it using anti-pill fleece liners or safe wood shavings such as kiln-dried pine or aspen (you can find large bags of these shaving options at local farm or feed stores for cheap). Avoid any plastic flooring, as it's easily chewed and unsafe.
Cage Placement Matters:
Position the cage away from windows, fans, and direct sunlight. Chinchillas are extremely sensitive to heat and drafts, which can quickly lead to overheating or respiratory infections. Leave several inches between the cage and nearby walls or furniture—chinchillas are notorious for reaching out and chewing anything within range. For easier maintenance, place the cage on a hard surface like tile, vinyl, or hardwood. If you must keep the cage on carpet, use a floor protector or mat underneath to shield against spills, hay, and soiled bedding.
Recommended Cages
• Ferret Nation and Critter Nation cages are two of the most reliable, durable and widely used options. Each single unit measures 36” L x 25” W x 25” H, making it recommended for 1–2 chinchillas. These cages have the strongest bars (preventing bar breakage from ledges or other weight-bearing items being attached to the cage) are easy to clean, with fully removable trays and customizable setups. Ferret nations have vertical bars (strongest bar option) with 1” bar spacing and Critter nations have horizontal bars (a little weaker bars) with ½” bar spacing. However, their plastic pans should be covered with fleece or replaced with metal trays from suppliers like Bass Equipment or VanHouten Cages.
When transporting your chinchilla—whether for vet visits, relocations, or emergencies—a secure, all-metal carrier is essential. Look for cages with limited interior space to minimize movement during travel, which helps prevent stress and injury.
Trusted options include but are not limited to:
• KW Cages (rabbit transport cages with compartments for storage)
• VanHouten Cages (specialized chinchilla transport options)
• Bass Equipment Co. (durable chinchilla carriers)
A well-ventilated carrier with one or more compartments is ideal, especially if you want space to store food, water, or travel supplies alongside your pet.
Cage Setup & Enrichment: Creating a Safe Chinchilla Paradise
A well-designed cage isn’t just a home, it’s a playground, sanctuary, and health tool all in one. The right setup can help prevent injuries, reduce stress, and encourage your chinchilla to stay active, happy, and mentally stimulated.
Safety First: Height vs. Width
Despite their impressive jumping ability, chinchillas are not built for vertical spaces. They have poor depth perception and are surprisingly clumsy—falls over 12 inches can result in broken bones or worse.
• Avoid tall cages unless you completely fill vertical space with platforms, ledges, and perches. You want the jumps and perches spaced no more than 6 inches apart (for ease of movement) and the cage platforms setup in a zig-zag pattern to prevent holes where your chinchilla could fall more than 12” to help prevent serious injuries.
• Wider cages are typically safer and better suited to how chinchillas move, they hop, not run.
Hides, Tunnels & Hangouts
Chinchillas need places to hide, explore, and rest—just like they would in the wild.
Some good hiding spot options include:
• Wooden huts, wooden octagonal houses, seagrass hides
• Fleece or metal tubes (no sharp edges!)
• Sky bridges, stairs, tunnels, and platforms
Avoid hides made with screws, nails, staples, or toxic glue. Look for items built with wooden dowels or non-toxic, animal-safe adhesives used sparingly.
Cage Hygiene Essentials
• Flooring: Avoid plastic floors. Use a metal pan or cover plastic with anti-pill fleece for safety and comfort.
• Urine guards can help keep waste inside the cage for easier cleanup.
• Food & Water: Use two glass water bottles and a ceramic food bowl (heavy or cage-mounted) to prevent tipping. Mount water bottles 6” or lower to the ground on the outside of the cage. It’s ideal for the chinchilla to be on all four feet while drinking. It’s important to put pellets into the food bowl and not scatter feed.
Avoid plastic accessories—chinchillas chew everything, and ingesting plastic can lead to dangerous blockages.
Hay Setup
• Avoid hay balls and internal racks—chinchillas can get stuck in them.
• Or skip the rack altogether and just place hay loose in the cage—they’ll enjoy rearranging it (yes, redecorating is a thing).
• Use an external metal hay rack for safety and ease.
Ledges, Perches & Furniture
To promote natural movement and healthy feet, add plenty of ledges and perches with different textures and shapes:
Some safe wood options include:
• Apple, Pear (fruity options)
• Kiln-Dried Pine (most popular for shelves and ledges)
• Poplar (very durable, great for shelves and ledges)
• Ash, Aspen, Red Elm
• Willow, Mulberry, Sycamore
Include lava ledges for chewing and foot health. Always place lava ledges 6” or closer to the floor since they can break apart.Add metal ledges sparingly, your chinchilla needs to chew wooden surfaces to maintain healthy teeth.
Place ledges no more than 6 inches apart to support their hop-and-jump style.
Soft Spots & Cuddle Options
Chinchillas appreciate cozy comfort:
• Fleece hammocks, beds, and snuggle sacks add texture and comfort.
• Fleece “chin buddies” are soft companions they can cuddle, or in some male chinchilla cases, “hump.” It’s a harmless way for them to release hormones and avoid targeting your arm instead.
If your chinchilla starts chewing fleece, remove it immediately to prevent ingestion. If they keep chewing, switch to safe wood shavings instead and stop using fleece.
Pro Tip: Wash fleece using unscented laundry soap and vinegar to neutralize odor. Don’t use fabric softeners!
Toys & Enrichment
Mental stimulation is vital for a chinchilla’s well-being and encourages natural behaviors. Rotate toys to keep things fresh and fun. Make sure to supervise your chinchilla playing with their toys to ensure safety. If a toy part becomes sharp, splintered or appears unsafe, replace.
Best Practice:
• 2+ hanging toys at a time (hung with stainless steel or seagrass rope)
• Multiple Toss toys (vine shapes, pine blocks, toy parts tied together)
• Sticks, twigs or twiglets daily (you can give as many as you’d like)
• Wood chews (refer to safe woods list above), pumice stones, vine chews, bamboo finger traps, seagrass mats, coconut discs or bowls, loofah, etc.
• Vine chews (kiwi, blackberry, raspberry)
• Soft specialty woods (yucca, cholla)
Regularly check cage items for wear and tear, especially wooden or metal pieces. Replace anything splintered, sharp, loose, or chewed down. A great way to remove urine stains and keep wood ledges and furniture in good condition longer is by sanding down until smooth.
Note: Only use organic, untreated wood that has undergone thorough processing. This requires wood to be scrubbed (removes dirt, bird feces, contaminants), boiled (removes tannins and phenols which can be toxic to chinchillas if ingested, kills parasites and mold) and baked (further sterilizes the wood and helps get rid of remaining bacteria).
To keep your chinchilla safe, avoid the following:
• Plastic exercise balls (unsafe and unnatural for chinchilla anatomy)
• Plywood (thin layers of wood veneer glued together)
• Plastic accessories (toys, hides, tubes, food dishes, etc.)
• Hay balls or internal hay feeders made of wood or metal(chinchillas can get stuck)
• Cedar wood (toxic to chinchillas)
• Paper bedding (can expand when ingested and cause blockages in chinchillas)
• Items with lead or toxic paints (poisonous to chinchillas)
To wheel or not to wheel? Providing a wheel for your chinchilla is entirely optional. Chinchillas are not built like other small animals who need and use wheels regularly such as hamsters, mice or rats who run with all four limbs. The Chinchillas natural form of movement is called saltation and they hop using powerful back legs. While some owners find wheels to be a helpful form of enrichment and exercise, others steer clear due to the potential risks. Ultimately, whether or notto use a wheel comes down to your individual chinchilla’s personality, physical health, and behavior.
Pros:
• Exercise & stimulation: For some chinchillas, a properly made wheel can be a fun way to burn off energy and stay active.
• Mental enrichment: Chinchillas are smart, curious animals. A wheel may provide an outlet for boredom, especially in smaller enclosures or between play sessions.
• Voluntary use: Unlike forced exercise, a wheel gives your chinchilla the option to run at their own pace, if they choose to use it at all.
Cons:
• Spinal and joint strain: The curved running surface of a wheel can stress a chinchilla’s spine and hips.
• Falls and flings: Some chinchillas run so fast they get flung from the wheel, crashing into cage walls or accessories, sometimes resulting in serious injuries.
• Overexertion: Chinchillas in a “fight or flight” state may run out of panic rather than fun. High adrenaline levels, fatigue, and poor self-regulation can trigger seizures, heart issues, or complete exhaustion.
• Stress behaviors: If your chinchilla runs obsessively or seems frantic, the wheel may be making them feel more anxious, not less.
If You Do Use a Wheel, Here’s How to Do It Safely:
• Size: Only use wheels that are 15–16 inches in diameter with 4” minimum width.
• Material: Choose all-metal wheels with a solid running surface—never use wheels with bars, holes, or plastic parts.
• Recommended brands:
o Chin Spin by Quality Cage and on Amazon
o Pandemonium Pets has a variety of safe wheels
• Supervision: Observe how your chinchilla uses the wheel. If they run constantly, appear stressed, or fall frequently, remove it for their safety.
• Mount the wheel with 2” clearance near the floor of the cage for safety.
• Consider occasional use: Rather than leaving a wheel in the cage 24/7, some owners opt to offer it occasionally.
In the end, wheels are not a necessity for chinchillas like they are for other pets. They’re hoppers, not runners and their bodies reflect that.
Cleaning your enclosure:
Maintaining a clean, well-kept environment is one of the most important responsibilities of chinchilla ownership. Good husbandry means more than just cleaning—it’s about creating a healthy, safe, and enriching space where your chinchilla can thrive.
Spot Cleaning: Your First Line of Defense
At a minimum, you should spot clean every other day. This includes removing soiled bedding, wiping down shelves, ledges, tunnels, and hides, and clearing out leftover hay and droppings. Regular spot cleaning keeps odors down and prevents mess from building up—especially important if you use fleece liners or house multiple chinchillas. Our favorite cleaner to spot clean with is a mixture of 50/50 white vinegar and water in a spray bottle.
Deep Cleaning: A Fresh Start
Deep cleans should be done once every 1–2 weeks, depending on the number of chinchillas in the cage and how quickly mess accumulates. For a single chinchilla, a two-week schedule may suffice if you're diligent about spot cleaning. However, if you have more than one chinchilla, weekly deep cleaning is essential.
A thorough deep clean includes:
• Removing and replacing all bedding
• Dumping old hay and pellets; refilling with fresh supplies
• Wiping cage bars and trays with a 50/50 white vinegar and water solution
• Washing and refilling water bottles
• Swapping out hammocks and fleece items
• Scrubbing or vacuuming tunnels, hides, and shelves
• Adding fresh enrichment (like new chew toys or wood chews)
Pro Tip: Once a month, wash metal pans with Dawn dish soap and a scrubby pad. If urine stains remain, spray them with your vinegar solution and let them soak for at least 15 minutes before scrubbing again.
Bedding & Flooring Options
• Fleece Liners (No Absorbent Layer): Replace and launder every other day
• Fleece Liners (With Absorbent Core): Replace and launder every 2–3 days
• Kiln-Dried Pine or Aspen Shavings: Replace weekly or biweekly, depending on how well spot cleaning is maintained
Dust Baths: Keeping Fur and Skin in Top Shape
Chinchillas rely on dust baths to keep their dense fur clean and healthy. Offer dust baths 2–3 times a week, but adjust based on your environment and handling frequency:
• Humid or high-contact homes: You may need to increase baths to 4 times weekly
• Dry climates or minimal handling: Once a week may be sufficient
Watch your chinchilla’s fur—if it appears greasy, clumped, or dull, they likely need more frequent dust baths. Never use sand!
Top Dust Brands:
• ChillDust (Highly recommended for its purity and textureand top notch cleaning job. This dust is better for allergies because the dust is heavier and settles quicker.)
• Oxbow Poof (Readily available and pumice based.)
Use a dust bath container that’s spacious enough for your chinchilla to comfortably roll around. Great options include:
• A large ceramic bowl
• A wide glass cookie jar or gallon mason jar
• A glass aquarium or Pyrex baking dish
• A shallow metal pan
A common mannerism chinchillas do after dust baths is swiping their nose. They do this as normal grooming behavior, but if it becomes excessive or is accompanied by discharge, labored breathing or other symptoms consult your vet.
Daily & Weekly Health Maintenance
Daily Tasks:
• Top off food bowls with fresh pellets
• Check water bottles by tapping the nozzles to ensure proper flow
• Observe and interact with your chinchilla, even briefly—this helps you monitor their behavior, posture, and energy levels
Weekly Health Check: Use a digital kitchen scale to weigh your chinchilla in grams once a week. Chinchillas can range widely in size (from 400g to 1600g), so tracking their individual trends is more important than hitting a specific number.
• Normal fluctuations (due to food/water intake): ±30–40g
• Concern threshold: Loss of more than 40g in a single week and consistent weight loss over time should prompt a vet check
Regular weighing is one of the earliest and most effective ways to detect illness or stress—often before visual symptoms appear.
Keeping your chinchilla’s habitat clean and staying on top of their health routine doesn’t have to be overwhelming. With consistent care and a solid cleaning schedule, your chinchilla will enjoy a cozy, safe, and enriching space to call home.
Health concerns:
Chinchillas are pros at hiding illness, so staying ahead with proactive care, early detection, and knowing what’s normal (and what’s not) can make all the difference in your chinchilla’s long, happy life.
Finding the Right Veterinarian
Before an emergency ever happens, it's wise to research and establish care with a qualified exotic veterinarian, preferably one with specific experience treating chinchillas. This can be a challenge, as many exotic vets are more familiar with rabbits or small rodents, which can lead to misinformed care if they don’t have proper, species-specific knowledge.
To make future visits easier, schedule an initial wellness examas soon as you bring your chinchilla home. This creates a client relationship with the clinic, so you can more easily secure appointments in emergencies.
Note: Routine vet visits aren't necessary for chinchillas unless there's a concern. Unlike cats or dogs, chinchillas don’t require vaccines, flea treatments, or annual checkups. In fact, unnecessary vet trips can cause more harm than good due to the stress they induce. So outside of that first checkup, only visit the vet when a medical need arises.
As a chinchilla owner, continued education is your greatest tool. Since chinchillas can live 15–20+ years—often outliving dogs and cats—investing time in learning about their care pays off. Even seasoned owners with decades of experience benefit from staying up-to-date with new information and improved care standards.
Male Chinchilla-Specific Health: Hair Rings
Male chinchillas are prone to a condition called a hair ring, where loose fur wraps tightly around the penis, potentially cutting off circulation. These rings form naturally due to how the penis retracts into the body, and they don’t usually require intervention.
However, warning signs of a problematic hair ring include:
• Excessive grooming of the genital area
• Straining or difficulty urinating
• Swelling, discoloration, or a prolapsed penis
If you notice any of these signs, contact your exotic vet immediately. Untreated hair rings can lead to urinary blockages, infections, nerve damage, or worse.
Female Chinchilla-Specific Health: Pyometra
Female chinchillas go through regular heat cycles, which can result in dampness around the groin. This is completely normal and usually passes unnoticed. Occasionally, the cycle may produce a heavier white or milky discharge, but you should never see blood.
Be on the lookout for warning signs such as:
• Lethargy
• Loss of appetite
• Foul-smelling discharge
• Abnormal vaginal fluid
These could point to Pyometra, a serious and potentially life-threatening uterine infection. Pyometra is caused by a bacterial infection that leads to pus buildup in the uterus and requires immediate veterinary care.
Catching issues early can be the difference between recovery and tragedy. If you see any of the following, act quickly:
Emergency Symptoms:
• Lethargy or unresponsiveness
• Dragging hind legs
• Seizures or collapse
• Open mouth breathing or excessive yawning
• Labored breathing
• Bloating
• Limping or self-mutilation
Concerning/Highly Concerning:
• Drooling or wetness around mouth
• Eye discharge lasting over 24 hours
• Hunched posture
• Changes in stool (diarrhea, constipation, blood, etc.)
• Noticeable weight loss
• Fur chewing (indication the chinchilla is stressed about something – most common or there is an underlying issue – less common)
Common Health Issues in Chinchillas
Here are some of the more frequent health problems seen in pet chinchillas:
• Bacterial Infections
Caused by contaminated food, water, or exposure to wild rodents. Clean living conditions and filtered water are essential.
• Fungal Infections (e.g., Ringworm)
Very common and highly contagious. Often presents as bald patches or flaky skin.
• Streptococcus (Strep)
Can cause respiratory infections, abscesses in the neck or groin, and eye infections (conjunctivitis).
• Pasteurella
A deadly bacterium often transmitted from rabbits who carry it. Avoid co-housing with rabbits or using shared supplies.
• Pneumonia
A serious lung infection often triggered by drafts, high humidity, or poor air quality. Symptoms include labored breathing and lethargy.
• GI Stasis
A slowdown or halt in the digestive system. Can be caused by poor diet, stress, or illness. This is a veterinary emergency.
• Choking
Chinchillas cannot vomit, making them especially vulnerable to choking.
• Giardia
A parasitic intestinal infection that can cause soft stools and weight loss. Spread through contaminated water or dirty environments.
• Malocclusion
A serious dental condition where the teeth or roots are misaligned and overgrow. Signs include drooling, weight loss, and decreased appetite. X-rays are needed for diagnosis.
Staying alert, informed, and proactive about your chinchilla’s health gives them the best chance of a long, happy life. When in doubt, trust your gut and call your vet. It’s always better to catch problems early than to wait.
First Aid Kit Essentials
Emergencies happen fast. Your best defense is vigilance. A chinchilla first aid kit can be a lifesaver—and a sanity-saver. Be sure to consult your veterinarian before administering any medication. Here’s what to include:
Wound & Injury Care
• Self-adhesive gauze wraps (for wrapping wounds)
• Blunt-tipped scissors
• Hand sanitizer, disposable gloves, face mask (hygiene for yourself)
• Tweezers (for foreign objects)
• Cotton balls + Blu-Kote (with dauber preferred)
• 10ml syringes (for wound flushing, feeding or administering medicine. Always put syringe in the side of the chinchilla’s mouth to prevent aspirating [drowning on the liquid])
• Styptic powder (for minor bleeding)
• Emergency cone (to prevent chinchilla from chewing or licking a wound or injury)
Eye, Skin & Fur
• Terramycin or Vetericyn eye ointment (for minor eye infections)
• Mild, unscented eye drops (for dry or irritated eyes)
• Antifungal powder (1% tolnaftate or 2% miconazole for fungal infections)
• Metal dog or cat comb (for matting and grooming)
• Bag Balm (very limited use—only for dry ears or rare foot issues)
⚠️ Only use Bag Balm on feet if imperative, soft feet are prone to injury and infection. Chinchilla feet should be firm and calloused. Chinchillas get bumblefoot (foot infection) due to living in dirty conditions, not based on what surfaces they areon.
Digestive Support
• Simethicone (baby gas drops for gas and bloating relief)
• Critical care formula for herbivores (Oxbow, Sherwood – forsyringe feeding nutritional support when your chinchilla refuses to eat or won’t eat. If a chinchilla isn’t eating any food on their own you must push 60ml-80ml of critical care broken into multiple sessions of 10ml-15ml at a time to ensure they are getting enough nutrition to maintain their weight and keep their gut moving)
• Feeding syringes (wide-tip, 10ml – for feeding critical care)
• Benebac gel or probiotic powder (especially after stress or 3 hours before or after giving antibiotics)
Poison Control / Cleaning
• Activated charcoal tablets (for accidental ingestion)
• Johnson’s Baby Shampoo (for cleaning toxins from fur)
• Unscented baby wipes (for ears, face, urine stains, etc.)
• Cornstarch (added to dust baths to reduce urine staining)
💧 Avoid getting your chinchilla wet unless medically necessary. Getting soaked can compromise immune health. Use baby wipes or dry methods when possible. Never submerge any part of their face.
Storage Tip:
Keep all supplies in a cool, dry place and check expiration dates regularly.
Socializing and bonding:
Chinchillas are intelligent, emotional, and sensitive animals that thrive in safe, trusting relationships. While they may not bond the same way as a dog or cat, they are absolutely capable of forming strong attachments with their human(s), relationships built on patience, calmness, and consistency.
Handling With Care
When picking up your chinchilla, always use a secure and gentle approach. The safest method is the tail hold: place one hand under their abdomen for support and use your thumb and forefinger to gently grip the base of the tail (never the middle or tip). This stabilizes them, prevents injury from sudden jumps, and helps reduce stress. Chinchillas are powerful jumpers—capable of leaping up to 6 feet—but even a 12-inch fall can lead to serious injury due to their delicate bones.
Avoid grabbing or squeezing around the ribcage. Chinchillas have fragile shoulder blades and non-weight-bearing front limbs. Gripping them too tightly can cause spinal or nerve damage, sometimes resulting in seizures or permanent injury.
While holding your chinchilla, offer gentle chin rubs, soft pets to the ears or chest, and speak calmly. These moments of affection help reinforce your bond and show them they’re safe with you.
The Burrito Wrap
Need to administer medication or critical care? Try the Burrito Wrap, a gentle method of wrapping your chinchilla in a fleece blanket with just their head exposed. This mimics the safety of a burrow and helps keep them still without causing panic. Only use this technique when needed to not stress your chinchilla unnecessarily.
Chinchillas should never be taken outside. They are strictly indoor animals. Even using a harness (you should never put one on a chinchilla!) isn’t a viable option to take a chinchilla outside because their bones can easily break, or they could escape. Outside they can become overwhelmed, escape easily, or fall prey to predators like dogs, cats, bird of prey, foxes, and even raccoons or nutrias. If a chinchilla escapes outdoors, the chances of recovery are slim, and survival in unfamiliar territory is unlikely. Additionally, most outdoor plants are toxic to chinchillas, and their sensitive digestive systems can’t handle unknown vegetation. They also rely on cool, dry environments. Outdoor temperature and humidity levels can quickly become dangerous. For their health and safety, always keep your chinchilla indoors.
Building Trust
Bonding takes time. During the first few weeks, avoid treats. Instead, offer safe enrichment items like hay cubes, vine balls, apple twigs, or pumice stones—through the bars to encourage positive interaction.
A great bonding trick is to wrap your chinchilla gently in a fleece blanket (or a bonding bag) and hold them close against your chest or in the crook of your arm for 10-15 minutes a day. This simulates a safe enclosed burrow, offering security. Talk to them in a calm, kind voice reading aloud, watching TV together, or playing gentle music helps them acclimate to your presence and household sounds.
Fun fact: Many chinchillas genuinely enjoy listening to music and watching TV with their human(s).
As trust builds, your chinchilla may want to sit on your shoulder or fall asleep on your chest or lap. This is a huge sign of comfort and connection, but only allow this once your bond is strong, since you won’t be using the tail hold to secure them in those moments.
💩 Expect the Poops
Chinchillas poop a lot, 250 to 300 times per day, and they can’t control it. This is totally normal! To manage the mess, use a fleece snuggle sack or cuddle cube to catch droppings during bonding time. Also, pay attention to your chinchilla’s body language: fidgeting or wiggling may mean they need to urinate, give them space when they do.
Settling In & Immune Support
Moving into a new home is stressful for chinchillas. To ease the transition:
• Avoid giving treats for the first 2–3 weeks.
• Use Bene-Bac Gel or a probiotic for immune support (pea-sized amount, twice daily).
• Keep noise and stimulation levels low at first, then gradually introduce everyday household sounds. Most chinchillas can thrive in a normal, noisy household environment.
If switching them off unhealthy pellets, a cold turkey switch to high-quality pellets is recommended. However, if you’re transitioning between two healthy brands, mix them, gradually adding more of the new food for a couple of weeks to avoid stomach upset. If your chinchilla doesn’t drink much water at first that’s okay. Chinchillas will drink when they are thirsty and don’t require much water. You can monitor water levels by using a rubber band around the water level. Poops may take some time to regulate in size and shape. Don’t be disturbed if poops are smaller or different shapes in the first week of bringing them home. Their bodies are stressed from the move.
Play Time
Out-of-cage play time can be a great way for your chinchilla to exercise and bond with you, but it comes with risks. Most injuries and accidents happen during play time, not inside the cage. While you are engaging in play time make sure you:
• Always supervise and never leave your chinchilla alone.Accidents can happen fast.
• Watch for fatigue. If your chinchilla isn’t taking breaks or seems panicked, stop the session early.
• Limit play time to 20 minutes to prevent exhaustion. Chinchillas can’t always self-regulate, and overexertion can trigger seizures or health issues. If your chinchilla can handle longer play times, don’t exceed 30 minutes.
Bathroom Play time Setup (Most Popular Option)
• Chinchilla-proof the room (Remove anything they could chew, climb, or knock over. Tuck away cords, plastic or anything toxic.)
• Close the toilet lid, (Chinchilla could fall in.)
• Cover or block baseboards, (Chinchillas love to chew them, which can be dangerous.)
• Sit with them, (Interacting on the floor builds trust and lets you keep a close eye.)
Playpens: A Controlled Space
• Use a tall, all-metal playpen with tight bar spacing and vertical bars (no wider than 1” bar spacing).
• Set it up in a chinchilla-safe area, free of furniture or objects they could reach by jumping.
• Sit inside or directly next to the playpen to supervise—they can jump out if motivated! Don’t rely on the pen to contain them, your presence is the safety net.
When done safely and in moderation, play time is an amazing way to give your chinchilla mental stimulation and strengthen your bond. Just remember: your attention and environmentalpreparation are what make it safe.
Introducing a Second Chinchilla
Thinking of a companion? Introduce chinchillas with patience and planning:
• Quarantine the new chinchilla in a separate room with its own air supply for at least 3 weeks.
• Use HEPA filters or air purifiers to limit airborne pathogens.
• The top two bonding techniques are the Slow Introductionor Smoosh Method done in neutral space. Introductions should always be carefully executed with supervision.
⚠️ If a fight breaks out, especially with blood or fur loss, separate immediately and do not try to bond again. Some chinchillas simply cannot cohabitate.
Finally, never introduce your chinchilla to cats, dogs, rabbits, or other household pets. Even the most gentle dog or cat can unintentionally harm a chinchilla due to their size, teeth, claws, or the harmful bacteria present in their saliva. Chinchillas are prey animals, and many pets may instinctively view them as such. Some chinchillas react with panic or aggression, which increases their risk of injury. Rabbits, though often thought of as similar companions, are much stronger and can carry Pasteurella multocida, a bacteria that may not affect the rabbit but can be deadly to chinchillas.
In the End, It’s About Trust
The bond between a chinchilla and their human is incredibly rewarding, built not through force or treats, but through calm, respectful interaction and daily consistency. Every small moment, from a curious sniff to a cuddle under your hoodie, is a sign that you’re becoming part of their safe world. Be patient, go slow, and meet your chinchilla on their terms. You’ll be amazed at the loyalty, affection, and joy that follow.
Contributing Writer: Suzie Conley